Got a job on cleaning this camera out. I don’t see these a whole lot nowadays so I decided to blog the specs. The gaf L-CM is a rebadged L-CM. It’s Basically a Chinon M without couple things I heard. I also heard gaf was the former Ansco. Photos are after the cleaning.
Specifications (From what i can see):
- 35mm SLR Camera
- M42 Screw Mount with the auto reflex aperture
- Shutter Speed B -1/1000, Mechanical
- Center Weight Metering, Meter inside the viewfinder is just like the K1000 but smaller.
- Metering Range ASA 10-800
- PC Sync, X and M plug, with Hot shoe.
- Battery for the meter: Mercury, PX625/PX13. x1
- Non Interchangeable focusing Screen, Micro Prisms, No Split Image.
- Self Timer
Chinon Auto 50mm f2 M42 Screw Mount
- Focus range (on the ring) 0.5m to infinity
- Aperture – f2-f16
- Filter Diameter – 52mm
Not going to put a roll in this camera as I’m just working on it for someone else. Feels solid and heavy, Probably better than the K1000. Shutter speed seems accurate and fire without a problem, repeatedly. The meter is just like the K1000 inside the view finder, ” + 0 – ” with a needle, except it is not as big. View finder is bright, after the cleaning. Microprisms only, which is actually what i like best. I had to open the top to clean the prism and the focusing screen, from what I can see, everything is pretty heavy-duty and high quality, nothing sticks, most everything inside are in good shape, and lets just say I know this camera has not been stored in the driest place on earth. The only “bad” thing is, you need a big screw driver to take the battery cover off, a quarter would not work, I checked, it’s not because of corrosion, it is just that tight. Bottom line is, if you see one for a decent price, buy it, you’ll like it.
Cleaning the Prism and Focusing Screen:
There were signs of fungus inside. In order to get to the prism or the other side of the focusing screen, You need to take the top off. The only thing you might have trouble with is to take the film advance lever off. The black piece of metal on top of the lever is indeed glued on, You need to find something to try to spin the top and snap the glue or, ply it off with a blade. If you destroyed the plate, simple cut a piece of vinyl and over up the scratches. Once you get the top off, it’s just a standard spring clip on top of a plastic protective cover holding on the prism. There are no wires attach from the body to the top cover, all connections to the hot shoe are made via contacts.