Kuribayashi Petri 1.9 Color Corrected Super

Petri 1.9 Color Corrected Super with wide angle attachment and view finder

Specification

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  • Kuribayashi Camera Industries, INC. Japan
  • 4.5cm (45mm) Petri Orikkor 1:1.9
  • 6 Elements in 4 Groups
  • Coupled Range Finder
  • Parallax Correction View Finder
  • Focus: 2.8 ft to Infinity
  • Copal MXV Shutter
  • Shutter Speed: B 1 2 5 10 25 50 100 250 500 (Original Version)
  • Aperture: f1.9 – f16
  • Cold Shoe X/M Sync
  • Self Timer
  • No cable release socket
  • Aperture Blades: Original 10, later models 5.
  • Optional Accessories: Wide, telephoto adapter and external viewfinder

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I will work on your Petri, Contact me for more info.

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     Impression

  • Feels very comfortable in hand, rather solid.
  • Original version has 10 blades aperture which gives a pleasant bokeh.
  • Rangefinder that comes with parallax correction is always a plus.
  • Quiet Operation with a high quality Copal leaf shutter
  • Image quality is average
  • Rangefinder brightness is average
  • Grease inside focusing helical always dries up, sometimes it’s hard to turn, a lot of them are sized up. Re-lubing the helical takes some work.
  • I do recommend this camera, given if the price is reasonable, I got mine for around $30 USD.

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For more samples, search for Petri 1.9 on my blog.
Further Reading:
For Petri 7S and Petri 1.9 Side by Side Comparison: Click Here
For info about the Petri 7S only: Click Here

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38 thoughts on “Kuribayashi Petri 1.9 Color Corrected Super

  1. actually i have a petri ebn. i need to remove the top cover to reglue the green viewfinder and clean it as well including the film counter. i have some experience cleaning old slr’s but this is the first time i’m going to clean a petri. thanks.

    • Ebn and 1.9 are very similar, I did Ebns before. And since you have SLR experience, i will just leave you text instructions, by memory.

      1.) open the back over, jam something in the rewind crank, and the top of the rewind knob will thread off. There are 2 screws underneath the rewind crank.

      2.) the circular piece on the film advance crank is indeed threaded on, find a way to thread it off without scratching it. E.g. Pliers wrapped around with lots of tape and go easy.

      3.) Unscrew all the rest of the flat head screws you find on the top plate.

      4.) lift the top plate off straight up from both side, Very carefully.

      Let be know how that worked out for you.

    • And reminder, I can’t remember how the selenium meter hooked up, if its connected to the top cover, so be very careful when pulling the top cover off. However, I don’t think its part of the top cover. Be careful and watch for wires anyways.

  2. hi,

    got it. the wires of the meter are connected to the top cover. i cut it so it won’t be on the way of cleaning and fixing. this petri is a big mess…aside from molds and dust the rangefinder reflecting glass is broken.

    anyway, one more question, the wind lever doesn’t revert after winding even after i put lighter fluid in the winding mechanism [which i do in the other old slrs stored for a long time], is there a spring that i should look into ? thanks again.

    • Yes. about the rewind lever. Does it not revert at all or just slow? A lot of them are just slow, and they free up as you use them. When you get the rest of your stuff ready, just drop one or 2 drops of lighter fluid around there, and keep cranking it. do it couple times(but as you know, don’t get too much lighter fluid in there), it will free up more.

      About the range finder glass, would be great if you can replace it, otherwise, that camera is pretty damn good for hyperfocal!

  3. yes, the wind lever is just slow. i found the small piece finder rectangular glass and will try to reglue it to have some approximate focusing… and you are right, otherwise i have to deal with hyperfocal focusing. thanks again.

  4. hi, i have one. rebuiliding it. 90% working. all in good condition.

    can you help me? sometime the shutter is not working…

    • Sure I can, but I won’t be home till Sunday, so if you don’t see me reply till then, don’t be alarmed.
      So, its just the shutter is not working sometimes. Can you describe it further?
      Does it not working sometimes at all speed? Or only certain fast or slow speed.
      Does it not work at all (one and off) or hesitate?
      And does the self timer works nice and smooth.
      How often does the shutter not work?

  5. Have the same camera you do and have both telefoto and wide angle lenses. my question is how do you attach them do you need a special attachment and if so do you have the part number for it. thanks

    • I have both telephoto and wide angle attachments. If you have the correct ones it should screw right on the front of the lens via the filter threads. And use the external viewfinder that comes with the lenses, slip that onto the cold shoe.

  6. Hi, i just got one of this off ebay and the lens seems to have some vapour/water on it. Is it a hard job getting to the lens? Everything seems normal except for the lens.

    Regards.

    • Its not too terrible depends on which element you’re trying to get to. you can access the front 3 by twisting the silver ring off at the front by hand. Spanner wrench can do the rest of the job its relatively simple. However element #2 and #3 are cemented together, and water shouldn’t get in between. The back 2 elements behind the shutter and aperture is another story. If you have to separate them as far as I remember its easier to to take the whole lens and shutter assembly off the camera body. The trick to this is to keep everything clean, including the shutter and aperture blades, oil and dust free after you get everything opened up. Alternatively from the sound of it I can do this for $50 + return shipping if you’re interested.

  7. Derek, where do you stay? US? I’m situated in Australia and sending+return shipping to US cost a bomb~

    the part where i m trying to get to is i behind the shutter i think. After removing the front silver part, it seems like it is mould or sth on the lens instead of vapour/water. How do i remove the lens? my B mode is not working too. i think i twisted the black arrow part just now and it sort of moved~ How do i fix it?

    Regards.

    • Yes i am in the US, sorry I do not know any Aussie repair shop to recommend to you, but they probably still charge more than shipping it to me. But I’ll try to explain to you how you do it.

      To remove the elements. After the silver ring is gone, you will see 2 notches on the brass barrel, use a spanner wrench to take it off. And then on the same barrel, use a spanner wrench to take the black retainer ring off (again with 2 notches). You separated the front elements.

      After the brass barrel is removed. You will see the shutter blades and also can access to the aperture blades, or even the front of one of the rear element, to get to that, put it on 1.9 and on B. trip the shutter and do your cleaning if its on top of that element.

      If you need to access to the shutter. You should see a flat head screw on 12 oclock where the brass barrel would rest on before. Turn half turn on that, now you can use a spanner wrench to remove the retainer ring you see. After thats removed, you can lift off the shutter speed ring, or in reality, is the shutter speed cam, you will see the shutter. Watch out at 7 oclock on the shutter, the clicker for the shutter speed is there, its an arm about 2 cm long, lift it off and put it aside before you lose it.

      To separate the back 2 elements, You must peel off the vinyl off the body, take the 4 screws off. Remove the whole lens shutter assembly from the body, and use a spanner wrench to take the elements out fro the back side.

      Do not try to force the shutter speed ring to turn or you will end up breaking the shutter. As far as why wouldn’t it go on B, i can’t tell you unless i look at it. Or you can try to apply one TINY drops of lighter fluid at 1 oclock, and 5 oclock on the shutter unit and see if it does the trick, too much fluid will get on the shutter blades, aperture blades and the lens, we don’t want that. When the shutter speed cam is removed, the shutter will only works in B.

      To put the shutter speed cam back on make sure all the pins that needs to be on the notches are there, don’t bend any pins. For the clicker, push that part from the hole of the timer, use a screw driver to push on the left hand side of the arm while applying pressure on the shutter speed cam should snap the cam back down into place and it should click at each shutter speed.

      Any other questions just let me know.

  8. I found one of these in my parents closest while cleaning it out. Everything seems to work except for the shutter speed ring. It appears to only have one shutter speed despite whatever the ring is set to. The only other setting that works is bulb. The ring rotates smoothly with no stops at any of the shutter speed settings. Is this something that is easy to repair? Or will it require new parts?

    Thanks

    • The shutter speed is supposed to have “click stops”. It should click at every speed. And about the shutter speed. Most likely its just froze up in there, if thats the case its not too hard to fix and will not require new parts.

      • Thanks for the quick response.

        I read the post about disassembly a few posts up and will probably attempt over the weekend.

        Any chance you might make a blog post showing the internal mechanisms and how the come apart/work?

        Thanks

  9. I have a Petri 1.9 color corrected super. The focusing ring is stuck , it only goes from 12 feet to infiniy. What can i do? Thanks

    • Its either the RF mechanism prohibiting the lens to focus down any further, or its the old grease in the helical. If its the RF you might be able to fix it from the top cover, if its the grease, its easier to take the whole lens assembly off the body to work with.

  10. Hi i finally found my vintage petri 1.9 camera
    Firstly im new to this vintage camera.
    I don’t know how to set the exposure and focusing.
    I tried to snap any pictures and end up after developed its all blurred.
    Can u help me to how to set the number to.

    Thanks
    Gigg

  11. Hi finally i found my petri 1.9.
    I don’t know how to use this vintage camera.
    Im new to this vintage camera.
    I tried snap any pictures and end up developed all blurred.
    Can u help to to teach how to get the exposure and focusing right. I mean which number shld i use for just a normal shot

    • For a general exposure guide. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunny_16_rule

      1.9 2.8 4 5.6 8 etc are your f stop.

      B 1 2 4 8 15 25 50 100 etc are your shutter speed.

      To focus, you have to turn the focus ring (with the big knob) closest to the camera, and match the 2″ghost/superimposed” images in the center of the view finder.
      Alternatively, use the focusing scales on the focus ring.

  12. Hi Derek
    nice looking photos on your blog! I’m not a photographer but have recently been loaned a Petri +1.9 which is similar to the one in your pic. I have loaded some old out of date film, can click the shutter button and wind the film on – but it doesn’t have anything in the view finder which resembles 2 ghost/superimposed images – do you know how I would be able to tell if there is something broken without taking it apart? I can’t hear anything moving inside when I turn the camera over.
    thanks
    JL

    • Use this image for reference, this is the RF on the Petri.
      https://dehk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/imag0129.jpg

      In there you will see the frame lines on the outside, and an orange spot in the middle, that will be the range finder patch. When you turn your focus ring, you should see an over lay image on the range finder patch moving left and right depending on which way you’re turning your focus ring, and you’re supposed to align both of them. If the RF patch is not working like it’s supposed to, it’s more than likely that your RF mechanism is stuck / froze up. It is possible to fix it by someone who knows what he’s doing. However, even if that is not working, you can use zone focus with the distance markings on the focusing ring with the help of the depth of field markings.

      I hope that helps, cheers.

      • Hi Derek

        thanks for your reply. The frame lines are visible but no orange patch in the middle. Will finish the film and see how we went with the manual zone focus approach.

        cheers
        JL

  13. Hi Derek
    I just purchased a Petri 1.9 Green window that I ran a test roll through and I love it! But sadly after the test roll the shutter stopped cocking. If this is something you are able to fix plus a CLA please let me know.

    Thanks
    -Christian

    • I am sorry to hear that you ran a test roll and the shutter ceased up on you, I am confident I can tackle that problem for you, I will email you the details.

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