Stand Development with D76, Kodak Plus X and TMAX 100

Worked great on this high contrast scene with the distorted tonal range from the stand development.

The second shot shows the strong acutance it produced.

  I’ve been doing some research online about stand development with D76. Most of the pages I’ve read tell me to use Pyro or Rodinal because D76 is not suitable for it. I’ve read about people using D76 with TMX or TMY with successful results, but not with Tri X. Since I was bored and D76 is all I had on hand, I decided to try the D76 and PX combo. It worked beautifully. I am not going to tell you why there are times you may have to use stand development, please research thoroughly on your own.

  • Mamiya 640 PRO / Sekor
  • Stand Development
  • Kodak Plus X 125 (120) Exposed at 125
  • Kodak D76 1+7 (18oz Fluid Total) (To be specific, 1 part developer and 7 part of water, so it will be 18/8 = 2 1/4 oz Developer)
  • Presoak (Well I did what I call ‘Pre-wash’ like I do with everything else. I wash till its almost clear to swell up the gelatin and get rid of the majority of the stain)
  • D76 was at about 21C when started. Room temperature was at around 23C.
  • Time: 1 hr 5 mins.
  • Initial agitation: 10 times


  • The Tank calls for 18oz but if you can fit 19 or 20 in there go for it, so the edges will have less chance for air bubbles, and you have more working solution also. I would also recommend the same volume for 135 film.
  • -Open the lid of the tank so the developer will go back all the way down from the top after initial agitations.
  • Make sure you tap the tank very well to get rid of the bubbles afterwards.


A fellow reader did his own experiment with T-MAX based on this info.

“and it worked.  My negatives (Tmax 100) were of Norman Koren’s lens test image (vertical lines) Thanks for the post on d76 “stand” processing.  I used your 2.25 oz D76 suggestion increasing lines per mm). On the negative, there were resolved at least 48 lines/mm, close to the value expected from the Kodak data sheet.”

He also further elaborated on his procedures:
“The way I measured the highest resolution was simple:

  • Photograph a test pattern consisting of vertical lines at increasing lines-per-inch
  • Scan negative (at 9600 dpi in this case)
  • Set Photoshop ruler to pixels and determine the number of pixels between just-resolved line-pairs (8 here)
  • resolution = 8 pixels / 9600 pixels-per-inch * 25 mm-per-inch =  0.02 mm-per-line-pair

the reciprocal is 50 line-pairs-per-mm.”


A big thank you to Mr H. Cohen (Nov 2012).

Please leave me a comment or shoot me an email if you find this useful, and share your results!

4 thoughts on “Stand Development with D76, Kodak Plus X and TMAX 100

  1. I’ve been wanting to try stand development with D76, but I was wondering about its ability to develop different frames at different ISO. Have you witnessed this, and if so, how does it compare to normal push/pull development?

    • I’ve never shot the same roll of film with different ISO thru all the different frames purposely if that’s what you meant. But if you talking about the whole roll, yes it’ll work, just guesstimate the time accordingly and experiment. The contrast will be flatter with stand development than push. As a matter of fact the whole tonal scale is actually distorted. Good luck on your experiment and let me know how it works out!

  2. I’ve tried this with a national made (in Argentina) D-76 formula and Ilford SFX200 (35mm). Summer is hot here, so tap water is usually more around 30º than 20º, leading normal development to leave agitation streaks quite easily and noticeable, therefore stand development compensates quite well for this. I haven’t noticed great distortion in tonal range compared to normal development. I did notice more details in the shadows, as expected. Also finer grain, as expected (not with Rodinal, but from my other stand developments with other national developers) and increased perceived sharpness. I might try a 1:8 dilution next time, since I’m not really sure, but I think there was some overdevelopment in particular areas of the film (not the entire roll, though, just details). Overall, the process works just fine for Ilford SFX200, details and needed or wanted tuning aside. I know this post is old, but there’s still not much information about stand with D-76 on the net, so I thought I’d share my experience.

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