Photos with the Ansco Autoset CdS

  Took the Ansco Autoset CdS for a test drive around town and down to grand rapids after fixing it up. No light leaks, so that’s good news, and the shutter still working like a champ after I rebuilt it. Anyways I loaded Tri X on it and messed it up on developing because of the temp in my room. D76 1+7 Stand Development, 1 hour and 5 minutes. Room temperature? too cold and dropping. The photo from the Ansco has a unique vintage feel to it, but that also have something to do with the stand development. Remind you the development might be a little un even towards the edges.

11 thoughts on “Photos with the Ansco Autoset CdS

  1. hi there
    i see that you’ve been playing with petri 1.9 and petri 7s (in fact… almost the most detailed “review” of both cameras i can find)
    i came across a petri 2.8 on craigslist, went to take a look, and found the following problems:
    – shutter seems funny… it works fine at B, but at all other settings it just seem to go off at the fastest speed… any idea what’s going on and if it’s worth fixing?
    – the focus seems to be stuck… not sure if it “stiff” as you’ve described… or if the lubricants dried up like i read on google… (heard that a bit of lighter fluid should fix it?)
    – the film advance lever comes back kind of slowly after advancing… is it normal or what?
    the guy was selling it for $50CDN with box & manual. i really like the looks of the petri 2.8 (reminds me a lot of a leica… and the green finder is simply cool)… i would certainly have bought it if it’s working… but i don’t want to buy it just as a decoration. any help would be much appreciated! 😀

    • First, $50 CDN is a little much for that camera in my opinion. You should be able to get from ebay for even cheaper, without box of coz, but in fully working condition.

      -first, B works fine, but all the other shutter speeds seems to be faster than usual? How much faster? As long as they are not the same speed I think its adjustable, or something simply got stuck inside. The shutter speed is controlled by the shutter speed cam, it has notches in it, to control the speed. You file it down or punch it in to go faster or slower, But my guess is something simply get stuck especially the gears inside not running freely, I can’t be sure till i see or hear it.

      -Focus stuck completely, very common, as a matter of fact one of them i have to tear it all apart and scrape the old stuff out on one of them. BUT, now i found out that, If you opened the back of the camera, and squirt lighter fluid in the gab between the lens and the body, the fluid should get to where it needs to go, let it sit and with a ‘little’ force, it will break free. Problem is, excessive fluids has a chance get into the shutter and aperture blades, which is bad. But then, I found out electrical cleaner + cotton swab cleans them out pretty good, but (yes lots of buts), again, first you have to tear the whole front apart to do that (not too bad actually if you have the proper tools, i can tear the whole front down in 10 minutes), and then I am not going to promise the electrical cleaner is not going to damage the blades in 10 years. Seems to work for me for now thats all I know.
      Alternatively, you can try to break it free – dry, very carefully without scratching or breaking off anything.

      – The film advance lever is slow, is normal, I think its designed it that way, it saids on the manual, but I can’t remember exactly what for. I mean, its probably slower than its supposed to because of the age, but if you use it again it will free up.

      You can buy it if its mint, or i recommend you go look for a Petri 1.9, which is better in a way, because its f1.9.

      Either way, if you are going to buy it, let me know how it works out, or if you have anymore questions, just ask!

  2. thanks a lot for the info!
    – from what i could remember, all shutter speeds seem to be going at ~1/500… to be honest i have no real idea… but it simply goes “click” (certainly not 1/30)… i thought it might be some timer mechanism… but since i have no idea about how the shutter works, i really don’t know
    – ebay ebay… one thing i don’t like about ebay is that you can’t see the item before it arrives… who knows what you’re getting? (many people simply says “i don’t know anything about cameras i don’t know if it’s working etc etc)
    – the outside looks pretty good… but apparently petri’s are sth you can bump into… yet difficult to find if you’re actually looking for it… :S perhaps i’ll keep loking for a 1.9
    thanks a lot! 😀
    btw, what do you think about the sharpness of these petri’s? they seem to get mixed reviews over the internet (some say they’re not bad… some say they’re very soft)

    • Not a problem, i am glad I finally get to talk to someone have same interest as I do.

      – My guess for that shutter actually would be, the ‘lever’ is stuck, so it does glide down on the shutter speed cam, thats why its appears to be the same shutter speed other than B. The shutter speed cam on the 1.9 or 2.8 are very similar to the Petri 7S.

      – Actually most of my Petri are from ebay. But i am not too worry because I fixed them anyways, But i see what you mean, you just never know, another places you can go look, thrift stores.

      – Yes keep your eyes open for a 1.9, you will love it!

      – Sharpness, mixed review eh, yes some people hate Petris because they are 2nd line camera and that’s why they don’t give them enough respect. I have both the 7S and 1.9 . I never tired the Petri 2.8. The 1.9 is plenty sharp when I don’t use the aux. wide angle adapter, with it, its “OK”, i use it for street photography. But the bokeh on the 1.9 is beautiful. The 7S is another story, the 7S is no where as nicely built as the 1.9, but, I’ll say it in my own language, that stupid thing is insanely sharp! And I will say it’s sharper than my AIS 50mm f1.4 Nikkor in a lot of cases. And i am speaking of the 7S(2.8), i had the 7S 1.8 but i never put a roll through it before I cleaned it up and mailed it back out. Another thing about the 7S, it takes 52mm filter, that means most of my filters for my nikon prime will fit. When i bought my 7S, i bought 1 thats with a chip lens from salvation army for $10, then I bought another one on ebay for 15. And put 2 and 2 together.

      I’m not home right now, but If you want samples of photos, remind me next week, or, search for “Petri” on my blog using the search box, you should see a list photos, and they are labeled with which Petri camera I used.

  3. haha nice
    me friend was like “wtf get a rollei and forget about that junk petri”
    but who cares… rangefinders are cool and i like petri’s looks
    – does the shutter sound like it’s fixable?
    – i’ve actually been to many thrift stores… but for some reason people in vancouver don’t seem to throw their cameras there (there’s usually just one or two broken brownies going for $50) i’m going to some flea markets tomorrow, lets hope i can find something 😀
    – yea hope i’ll be able to find a 1.9… 2.8 is fine for digital but kindda slow for film (especially during long winter nights)
    – ohhh what do you think about the petri 7 btw? i like how the rangefinder window is kind of slanted… looks very cool as well (i did read our other posts… but what do you mean by not as well built? like… lens barrel wobbles? cheap feeling plastic?)

    • I got a rolleiflex too. But looks like you got a mamiyaflex that will do the job also. You can’t simply compare different formats.

      Yes the shutter sounds like its fixable, it fires, its a very good sign.

      Really broken brownies for that much? Wow!

      Just push it to 1600 if you think its not fast enough lol.

      Well, built quality, The material used in the 7S are not as good comparing to the Petri 1.9. The winding mechanism sounded cheap, All the controls are usually loose (aperture, focus) it can be good or bad. My lens and shutter assembly has a slight wobble on it. And i heard the film winding mechanism doesn’t last that long, even though I do not have problem with mine. The carbon strips for the meter wears out easy, thats why 8 out of 10 Petri 7S 1.8, or 2.8, the meter doesn’t work right. After all the bad things i said about the 7S, mine works right and works great, shutter sounded very good, and stupidly sharp glass. If you can find one for $30, who cares, try it out.

  4. hmmm so you think the shutter is fixable (DIY)?
    – i might go grab it for $20 or so then 😀
    – yup… broken brownies…
    – i’ve never actually shot iso 1600 film… i’ve heard that it’s very grainy?
    – oh i see… but again… gotta wait till i find one… :S

    • Regarding 1600 speed, it really depends on how you develop it. I push my Tri X 400 to 1600 regularly. It looks good in my opinion, but yes do not compare them to 100ISO. After all, grain is better than digital noise. Only grain i see as excessive is from the Kodak TMZ, but then, i was using D76 and rotary tube, My friends can get good result with different developer and method. Anyways, try it, its fun.

      This one is shot at 1600

  5. Hi, my aunt just give her Ansco Autoset, and i don’t know if it works becouse i can find the battery, it is no longer being on sale. I want to ask you, if the shutter still works without a battery, and if it is in the lens intead in the camera.


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