I got some fresh Lucky SHD 100 -135/36 for about $1.3USD a roll. Stuck a roll in the Olympus Stylus Epic Zoom 80 for a test run. The film came out very clear because of the thin antihalation layer, which was very easy to wash off. The final product looks as clear a seran wrap. Not too bad if you like the glow, just have to watch out with the squeegee, this film is a lot easier to scratch.
- D76 Straight 20C 6 1/4 Minutes, normal agitation by hand.
Thought that one was going to turn out great, but my hands were shakin a lilttle bit, the camera is a little light for my taste.
My fav shot out of the whole roll. I am so printing this one in the darkroom.
Abstract self portrait anybody?
Thats RON, and this is exactly how I met him.
Nice car? Every section of the panel is different color, don’t think think it’ll cramp their style infront of a nice Hotel?
There might be a reason why this frame is blurry, when I finally passed by this guy, right next to him, he looked up, he got some freaky eyes going on, one that will send me ablaze and bounce back 10 feet.
Like I said, Not bad film eh? You get what you paid for.
Yeah I bet you wanna go in this party store.
It’s 20F outside, what a freak!
Carrie at the Pub
And Duke showed up, haven’t seen him in a while! Sharpest out of the roll I think.
Please remember film tests are subject to Film Developer, Agitation Methods and other variables.
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Go into that party store, it’ll be like pulp fiction. Great shot of Carrie in the pub, the flash acted right on that lucky…Even with high-contrast shots like the second one, the epic and the lucky stand up… I’d like to see you shoot a roll of this while metering yourself. Gotta get on to the Ultrafine! 🙂
Both the camera and the film is not bad, I especially like the first one like I said already.
nice shots
is it the film or the camera?
y do the shots look slightly hazy?
by the way, sent you an e-mail with attached pics
Most likely both but especially the thin anti-halation layer on the film.
Hey Derek,
I went to take a look at the Petri 2.8 earlier, and now the camera seem to have gotten worse… the shutter does not seem to fire… The shutter button also seems sticky (comes back up slowly after pressing)… However, I did not check if it’s because of a stuck timer button… the focus was movable (very stiff) and rangefinder seems accurate (image overlap and distance on lens seem to match)… However, the camera had obviously been dropped as there’s a big dent near the viewfinder and the front viewfinder glass has a crack on it. It does come with front cap, green and yellow filters, manual and a box. It’s selling for $28CDN now… do you think I should grab it and try fixing it / use it as a parts camera / decoration?
I’ve also found a Petri 7s going for ~$20 on my local craigslist… do you know what are the main problems of Petri 7s? I’ve read that meter and advance lever are 2 common problems (and of cause, light seals).
Many thanks in advance!
Alex
Like I said, I am sure you can pick a 1.9 up for cheaper price on ebay yet thats not dropped (might not be working) but its not broke. If $28 is nothing for you, go for it, but, meh, personally, If I were you I’d just let it go, if he can’t sell it, eventually he will go for $10. Be Patience.
7S. Buy it. And if you haven’t read the difference yet. https://dehk.wordpress.com/2011/01/05/petri-1-9-ccs-and-petri-7s-2-8-comparison/
Problems with the 7S, cheaper built than 1.9. People say rewind crank problem (never had that problem), Meter problem, yes, because the carbon strips inside wears out (i fixed mine with parts from donor camera). Light seals? they got the best seals I’ve seen, Mine are original and in one piece. And if that actually cause a problem, use yarn. After all, if the 7S works (even without the meter, i mean, its selenium anyways), buy it, what is 20$ for a camera that works, from a user but not a collector point of view.
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Thank you, and I sure will go visit!