Rolleiflex T Front Disassembly

I am going to share some pointers on how to get the shutter out for servicing. However this is not exactly a step by step tutorial. I expect you have some knowledge about working on TLRs .I am sure some of you find this just plain entertaining.

This post only apply to the tricky Rolleiflex T, to dissemble the front –

  1. Peel leatherette off on both side, remove 4 flathead screws.
  2. Take off the Timer / X/M Sync knob.
  3. Take off the retainer ring at the bottom, inside the PC sync slot.
  4. The front cover is free. Lift left side up, push to the right.
  5. **Watch out for washers/shims falling out under where the flathead screws were** As a matter of fact you want to lift the cover off carefully without moving those washers so you can see where they go and how many of them at any given spot.
  6. Take off the ring on top of the shutter and put it aside. Also the square piece so we don’t lose it.

To take out the ring inside the PC Sync I made a special tool to insert inside the hole. Grind and File a screw driver down to roughly 5.5mm wide. and file a 3~mm slot in the middle of it. Do your own measurement before you make your own tool.

This is the back of the front cover, to clean the f stop and shutter speed strip, remove the 3 screws holding the white plastic piece towards the top.

To remove the shutter.

  1. take the washers off that is on the PC sync
  2. unscrew the 2 screws holding down the PC sync
  3. take off the longer spring that’s hooked to the timer lever
  4. take off the shorter spring that’s hooked up to the trigger.
  5. Use a spanner wrench to remove the retaining ring/cup from the back of the camera.

This is the photo with the shutter removed. That silver ring where the shutter would go on top is your cocking ring.

You will see 4 silver flathead screws on this plate, DO NOT LOOSEN THOSE SCREWS. Or you will have fun trying to adjust and align the focus, also the focus between the viewing and taking lens.


Take the shutter off with the wires attached is easier, you may cut it off and resolder later if you want, but I don’t see the point.

Front elements threads off very easy. Servicing inside the shutter refer to any Synchro Compur diagram you can find online.

The back side of the shutter. See that arm at 7 o’clock is your trigger. It can also be remove if needed.

Putting it back together can be tricky and time consuming, here is what I did.

  1. align shutter to the cocking ring
  2. put the retaining ring/cup back on from the back
  3. test the shutter, cock it and fire it, make sure it works
  4. hook up the springs and screw down the pc sync + washers
  5. take the front elements of the lens off (optional)
  6. Adjust shutter speed to 9oclock using the shutter speed cam. That should be 1/500 I am doing these by memory now so don’t quote me.
  7. Push the aperture lever all the way up, that should be f22.
  8. Put the ring (cam) back on top of the shutter, also the square bit, i glued the square bit down myself.
  9. seat all the necessary washers back where they’re supposed to be
  10. turn the controls on the front cover to f22 and 1/500.
  11. Take the silver cup of f the PC Sync, which is held by a spring on the inside. PCsync part goes in first
  12. Make sure the aperture goes where it supposed to go, in between the “walls”
    reform the lever if you need to.
  13. Turn the shutter button so it seats
  14. Hold it down by hand, test your linkage with the shutter speed and aperture,
  15. Screw everything else back on.

If you are very unlucky, step 11 to 14 can take up to an hour.

Tips on the side panels for film transport

I’ve serviced that bit a long time ago, I am going by memory.

  • Expect the film transport to be more complicated than any non Rollei TLR.
  • Watch out for the tiny cylinders (bearings) falling out when dismantling the main crank. I advice you to take the handle off so you can take the cover off, and then put the handle right back on before working on anything else, so the bearings will stay in place.
  • if you need to to disconnect and/or pull out – the shaft with gear that goes across the back, be prepared to open up the other side in order to put it back in properly.

Good luck! Now read it once again before you decide to do anything stupid.

7 thoughts on “Rolleiflex T Front Disassembly

  1. Nice. If you end up servicing the Yashica Mat 124 that is currently at The Darkroom, I’d love to see a step-by-step on that, because there’s no telling when I’ll need service on mine, and I’ve become a bit braver about working with shutter assemblies after the Mamiya – 6.

    • I am sure I did the 124 before, its failry easy, just 6 -8 screws under the vinyl on the front for it to come off. The rolleiflex T actually took me a while.

  2. Hi, thank you for the guide. You mentioned “the square bit” and gluing this down, how big is this square bit and what purpose does it serve? I’m asking because I can’t see it anywhere and I’m worried it fell out or inside the camera somewhere. Thanks

    • It might be a shim that’s my camera needed for linking to the shutter speed arm . If you can put your camera Back and the shutter speed does adjust , there’s nothing to worry about .

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